Many moons ago I was fortunate enough to write a weekly column for The Sentinel, a daily paper in Stoke-on-Trent and Staffordshire. I had the opportunity to report about exciting new food and drink businesses, takes on the traditional local cuisines such as lobby and oatcakes and offer comparison to what was happening with hospitality in the area with other towns and cities.
The many 'discussions' as to the pros and cons of having 6 Towns, whether Stoke itself had the right to be known as the centre when Hanley seemed to hold the economic and social power, often filled the pages of the paper as well as featuring on political forums. Many bemoaned the level of investment in the area, whilst others felt a lack of pride and aspiration was of huge detriment to the Potteries.
My parents and in-laws still live relatively locally so we often find ourselves back 'in town' and recently we went to Lunar, the fantastic Niall Keating restaurant on the Wedgwood Estate. The food and setting are incredible (more of that later) but as much as anything else it reiterated the wealth of history, talent and passion that is so evident in the area. Centuries of industrial significance mean the heritage and achievement should be cherished and championed, yet they often get lost amongst the idle talk of deprivation and links to a Brexit supporting population. Some of the generic media coverage (not helped by the ridiculous antics of a current serving MP) often means that Twitter (it will always be Twitter to me!) is awash with derogatory commentary and negative remarks.
This I find incredibly saddening. There is so much to be celebrated, something perfectly showcased by the staff at Lunar who gave a brief history of Wedgwood and his luminaries and why the restaurant was themed in such a way. Many places such as this can have a stuffy or rigid feel, especially when the main man behind the project has numeorus associated Michelin stars and awards to his name (including Great British Menu - Champion of Champions) but Lunar is relaxed and very welcoming. And the food...blimey!
Nancy and I indulged in a cocktail and after a lovely chat with staff, I HAD to have the maple bacon sprout martini. It was superb. Keating (due to the Great British Menu) is renowned for his fish, so the Loch Duart salmon starter was a must and Nancy opted for the Cornish cod main. Add in my venison and we were both blown away and could have happily drunk the Brussel sprout sauce from the jug but spoonfuls sufficed. All concluded with the cinnamon spiced cheesecake.
The whole experience was incredible. Our meal was followed by a tour of the restaurant including the 'secret' room and more history. We both felt satiated from a food point of view whilst enthralled with the historical. All of which begged the question of not how you market a restaurant necessarily, but how do you market a city? Lunar (and the World of Wedgwood) is a true destination venue and quite rightly a jewel in the crown of Stoke and Staffordshire tourism. But it isn't easy. There is a comparable region within Greater Manchester that has the most unbelievable potential coupled with some already outstanding establishments. But this particular town still struggles to get people to visit as a destination, not necessarily individual venues.
Some of the biggest brands in the world ensure their reputation and image is founded upon the people that work for them. Arguable as to whether it's a myth, there's the tale of when JFK visited NASA HQ in 1962. The story goes that Kennedy met a cleaner and asked what he was doing, the response supposedly being 'I'm helping to put a man on the moon.' The belief, pride and therefore promotion comes from within which then is reflected in the perception of the business or brand as a whole. The people on the inside have to believe or those on the outside never will.
There are some brilliant success stories coming out of Stoke and the surrounding area (see Slice Culture amongst others) and some fantastic businesses that I have the pleasure of working for or with but when conversation with fellow Stokies turns to food and I suggest a concept in Manchester that could be replicated in the Potteries, the standard response tends to be 'That would never work here'. Add the Twitter vitriol and those superb businesses must often feel they are fighting a battle against those that should be the most vocal in their support.
Lunar is a must visit for all the proud Stokies I know are out there (you won't need to lift the plate either - if you know you know!), as well as food lovers generally.